14 The 2014 tour ends....

A lovely nights rest after 13 hours on the bike, 11 of them pedalling from Bruges to Rotterdam in one stage. My bike is in an underground car park here at Holiday Inn Central Rotterdam and its shackled but I had to remove all the bags for security. It looks like an explosion in my room. I cannot believe Ive cycled all this stuff from St Malo to Rotterdam. Having completed my circular loop of Europe, I am awarding myself a rest day and a train ride to Amsterdam where I catch my ferry home tonight.

Thoughts? Definitely the most challenging of my four long distance tours. Camping was the wrong decision. It is virtually impossible because of the time taken to erect and disassemble the tent and pack then do 80 or so miles. The headwinds were tough and over open sea on the Dutch Dam systems especially difficult. Breakfast today was my first food for 24 hours apart from an emergency Home Bargains Pasta bowl from the bottom of my bag. Thanks Janet Crosby for that treat! I think Ive just eaten 24 hours worth of calories just now....fresh orange x2, muesli, fruit yoghurt, banana, ham cheese egg and tomato bap, cafe au lait x2. And I made another sandwich for later. Have a great Friday or for my Aussie cousins a great weekend. A short train ride now up to Beverwijk then a short padal back into Ijmuiden to catch my ferry. The trains here are cycle friendly too, bicycles having their own space and seat belt!

Met a lovely french couple waiting to board. They speak very little English and me even less French but it is interesting to try to communicate. They are bikers touring Scotland for the first time so I have been able to give them some routes and places in the Highlands worth a look. Can't wait to get home and put some fresh clothes on. These have been handwashed and stuffed in bags for 10 days! Tot ziens!

13 Another big push to Rotterdam

If you'd asked me before last night my favourite European cities from a very short list of a non traveller it would be: 1. Barcelona 2. Paris 3. Nice 4. Amsterdam 5. Milan But after only an hour pushing my bike and luggage around and an hour eating out in the main square..... this, Bruges, is definitely in the top 5 .... probably at number 3. After only a couple of hours here. Lovely ambience, great architecture abounds and seems to have escaped the ravages of war. Will definitely be back. 10/10. Today's plan is to get a plan! Or should I say map. Then head for Breskens where I will need to catch a ferry to Vlissingen. From there it is straight on over islands connected by bridges to Ouddorp. If I can manage that then that puts me in place to complete the ride to Rotterdam and as time is against me, to catch the ferry I will probably need to catch a train to Beverwijk and pedal back over to IJmuiden. I had completed Amsterdam to Rotterdam in 2011 on the Snooker Club ride DCT1 so by getting to Rotterdam it will complete my "circle" of the North Sea English Channel and Bay of Biscay by cycling lands end to john ogroats, and the mainland European coastline from esjberg Dk down as far as Santander ES But lets see how it goes today. Crossing the sea at Vrouwenpolder - you are really exposed to high winds!

Traffic fee cycling is wonderful in this part of Holland

Safely in Rotterdam after 100 mls without a map! Can hardly think Im so battered by headwinds and rain. Too late too tired to go out to eat. I'll recover and report later.

12 Hello Belgium! - Long, long day to Bruges.

My planning this year was questionable. The daily estimated mileage was way out. I didn’t allow for strong headwinds all the way through France and now although almost at the Belgian border I am still some 80 miles from Bruges where my scheduled stop for last night was. At this rate I will miss my ferry by at least a day if not two! So my new plan is to visit the war graves in Ypres and then onto Roselaar. That should be about 50 miles today. If I can find accommodation in Roselaar I will then cycle onto Bruges and catch a train to Amsterdam. Missing home now! Sore, acheing everywhere. My body wants to relax a little I think.

Later .......  Where to begin? Well the mind body and bike were all in perfect harmony today and absolutely nothing was going to stop me from getting to Bruges today. Early morning rains sent frequent showers so the waterproof top and overshoes were needed. Everything was going so well. A long climb into Cassel was punishing but doable with a lovely town at the top. Panoramic views of the climb just executed.I have now made it into belgium in rain. First thing you notice is that you are separated from traffic with a cycle lane. Well done Belgium. Very moving that every few hundred metres there is a sign like this one. And the Union flag is everywhere.

I took lunch at Ypres where the war graves are numerous. And wild poppies abound. Very moving to see huge cemetaries of those who gave their lives for a free Europe. The tour de france is also coming in to town this summer. But then things started to go wrong. I stopped for some water and energy drink and must have left my glasses behind. Many miles later a map check was necessary and I couldnt read it! I ended up hopelessly lost with only motorways showing signs for Bruges. I called into a pharmacy at the next village Ardoinne but they didnt have any. She rang the next town Koolcamp where they had a pair waiting for me. Probably just enough time to change the pricetags! So new glasses @29 euro and more pedalling. Three miles further on I reached for the map and? ....I'd left it behind in one of the earlier shops! How do you cycle around a strange country without maps? I tried google a couple of times but my phone was getting low. Made it into Bruges at 8pm. 86 miles of good effort. Just to find my phone packed up while tryng to find a room for the night. Got one but not impressed. No choices really without power or an internet connection. Must shower and eat — at Bruges, Belgium

11 Onwards to St Omer

How funny life can be. At 5pm I was definitely taking in water wondering how I might continue the tour when the pannier broke loose. Miles from anywhere. Solutions pretty absent. Still thinking about the problems but my favourite fish soup and a steak with a comfortable double bed and in the words of James Brown.... I feel good! The Abbey here in Abbeville is huge. It seems to have survived two wars. Unlike the rest of this city which was flattened by the allies and rebuilt very oddly. Just checking on google maps as I have electricity and wifi! Im 30 miles behind where I should be after yesterdays oversleep and accident with the panniers. I will tie the bags up as best I can hoping to avoid another break and if I can get perhaps to the Belgian border I'll try and find a bed there. I have a fully charged phone and changed my settings which had been blocking all roaming. The pannier bag hasnt moved yet but a little trepidation on the one long downhill Ive had. Mainly climbing into headwinds again. All on a busy D road. Lunch stop at Hesdin. Where I should have reached last night. Yes that's me resting on the window of the local boulanger.

I hope I can crank out another 40 miles this afternoon to try to get on track. Later........ I have now arrived in St Omer - battered for 56 miles by the headwinds. Bike worked well with me. Even fixed my pedal clip which had worked loose. Doing another hotel. Life can give you the odd treat if you work hard. Showered, clean clothes and in town watching Belgium equalise with a cold pint. Staying in the Ibis courtesy of Mastercard! Another magnificent Cathedral towers over everything. — at Ville de Saint-Omer

10 Problems at Abbeville

After a tough day yesterday of 92 miles to Neufchatel en Bray, I slept very well and started Monday at 7am by doing my washing (by hand!) and used the dryer to get it ready to wear as I cant hang it out all day. I also managed to sneak some electricity into my sat nav by plugging it into a socket in the laundry room. Breakfast was an enjoyable left over banana x2 and bottled water. Then my first error....... the morning was nice and sunny and I stretched out in my tent while my washing was in the dryer and quickly went back into a deep sleep, waking at 11.30am! I couldn't believe I'd slept so long. I quickly packed up the tent and got underway by 12 which is rather a late start when the stages are quite long and challenging. I had bought a map of Northern France prior to setting off but suddenly today realised that it doesnt actually cover the bit I should be reaching tonight at Blangy sur Ternoise. With no power on my phone and no wifi for maps that could be concerning. The wind was in my face again as it had been for these three days. It was very slow progress. Arriving at Abbeville after 40 miles, some of them being lost, I knew that I could not reach my night campsite at Blangy sur Ternoise. I rode on about three or four miles out of Abbeville in the direction of St Riquier thinking of an alternative plan. I saw a sign for camping and followed it but it was just an old football pitch on which they allowed "wild camping". Not for me. I thought of that episode of Bear Gryhlls when he had to drink elephant's urine to survive and here was I, one step away! Lost, no place to stay, not enough hours of daylight to pedal another 40 miles and pitch camp. What to do? And just then the daily creaking of my panniers gave way to a crack and my front bag fell into my front wheel. Happily I was in traffic doing about 5mph and not coming downhill at 30. It could have been nasty. It looked as though some spokes may have been taken out and the housing for the pannier was bent and now without its cracked bolt. I lifted it off and made a temporary fix with cable ties and a bolt from elsewhere on the bike but it does not look too secure but can't be taken off because the other one at the front of the left side would then make it impossible to steer. I decided to turn around and headed back to Abbeville where I am now booked into a hotel with power and wifi. I need to wash and have some food and then make some decisions on whether I can proceed and how.

09 Lisieux to Neufchatel en Bray

Arrived Neufchatel 9pm from an 8.40am start. I did have two meal break stops but the actual cyclng time was over 10 hours. Not a bad effort for an old guy. I really struggled after 30 miles as I had realised I'd miscalculated the mileage. Total today was 92 miles making the running total in three days 225 miles. I am 2mph slower than usual with the tent sleeping bag ground sheets etc on the bike so todays 92 miles is equivalent to I guess around 112 miles on an unladen bike. The steering is very hard - you can't rest on the bike as it will become unstable. The human body is amazing. After 30 miles in tough headwinds, there was no way I could get to tonight's reserved campsite but a little bit of luck at Duclair where there was a ferry over the River Seine surprisingly running on a Sunday gave me some fresh inspiration and after 50 miles I picked up mentally. I got into the zone.... it is hard to describe but it seems as if your body is in tune with your mind calculating the mileage left and it just takes off. Quite amazing how you find the inner strength and more energy to complete a ride of this length on water and bananas! I would mention the town of Cleres which I passed through about 20 Miles from reaching Neufchatel. It was beautiful in bright sunshine and very popular with tourists. A little gem.

08 Saturday ride to Lisieux

Im ok. Feeling like Bear Gryhlls. No wifi. No power on any gadget now. I managed to charge my phone one bar using the shaver socket on the campsite loo. I didnt want to leave it there overnight. it was a very hard slog yesterday 74 miles firstly in heavy rain then bright sunshine followed by strong headwinds. Made it to Falaises for lunch where there is a lovely castle and an even better cafe! A baguette and millefeule for TC. Onwards to Lisieux where the Basillica had just closed for the evening. it would have been good to see inside. Pasta and green salad for supper last night then sleep. Today is Sunday and France is closed. Breakfast was campsite tap water. Honest! But I am hoping to find a supermarket to get some supplies. I've done 10 miles so far today to Blangy le Chateau. Heading for Neufchatel en Bray tonight. Hoping to find electricity. Camping each night after 70 odd miles is tough. Love to all.

07 Frying Friday

I am writing this note with no knowing of when I can post it but I can always save it for later and hope to find some electricity and some wifi.

I had a lovely stay at La Pompe with my sister Mo and bro-in-law Peter on Thursday and it was sad to leave them after just one day.  I wondered if it would be my last comfortable night for the next seven as I cycle camp my way through western europe.

I am the youngest of three and my two older sisters have always looked after me and in recent years as both have moved abroad whenever I visit either sister they still look out for me and really try to fatten me up with fantastic food and wine.  What can I offer in exchange? Fish n chips from the Arcade  chippy and a pint in the Kittiwake!

Today's ride was in scorching weather. I had picked a route that took in quite a few forest roads and I was pleased for the shade.

It was quite uneventful but with lovely views of Breton countryside. My ride was expected to be about 66 miles but in the end I think it measured just 60 mls and I was at my campsite in Domfront by 3pm. I thought of pressing on as the weather was so good and I felt like I had plenty of mileage left in my legs despite the very heavy bike but when planning this ride something had drawn me to this medieval town and I must say it is quite stunning.

So the tent is up, the site is lovely. The hot shower worked a treat (yes I took my bike in with me as it was a large single shower room!) and all my washing is done by hand and pegged to branches of the tree that Ive pitched my tent under for shade. Oh and the cost for the night is €3.  No electricity near my tent so hoping when I eat later, they'll let me charge my sat nav and phone.

Two final things to mention. Firstly my splendid smoked salmon and wild rocket brown bread sandwiches lovingly prepared by my sister with bananas and an energy bar for lunch. Fantastic. Taken at Landivy just past Louvigne which itself looked a lovely stop with great street cafes and food places but just too early for me and not over half way. I always insist on getting past half way in mileage before resting up for food. Its in the mind if you know youve got less to do in the afternoon.

Secondly,  last time I saw a "road closed" sign it was on a quiet road in Northumberland so I ignored it and carried on only to hauled back by an angry workman who told me that explosives had been laid to blast some land for opencasting of coal! This was at Longhirst. Lucky escape for me!

So today when my route said "route debarre" with no alternative and a 12 km detour, just past Landivy heading to Le Tilleul I stopped got my phone out to look at google maps when a guy approached me. And in my best O level french I said "la route a La Tilleul est ferme?" And shrugged my shoulders and looked generally frustrated. The reply in a broad Boycott-esque accent was "Parlez vooooz English?".......he was from Hull had worked in North Shields and now had retired to this tiny spot on the map where the roadworks were. 

He could tell me to proceed, that a little brook had breached the culvert and it was a lot of fuss about nothing. The local mairie had had the road closed but it was perfectly safe to proceed and walk the bike through the traffic cones. Saved me a long detour!

Food awaits. Au revoir!

06 Beautiful sunny French day....

A very quiet resting day today. The Bretagne docked on time and I made my way to St Malo which is a lovely old walled town. I sat in my favourite French Square at Hotel France et Chateaubriand and enjoyed scrambled eggs and strong French coffee.

The weather was glorious and it was out with the factor 30 before enjoying a lovely cycle around the coast on quiet roads to my parents favourite French spot at Cancale looking out onto the oyster beds the azure sea and Mont St Michel on the horizon.

Time for another coffee break and quality catching up time with my sister Mo and Bro-in-law Peter. Cancale is a working harbour resort but splendidly garnished with an array of smart sea food eating places.

The rest of the day was spent looking at my sister's two French properties, their home in Epiniac and their new seaside project currently being restored at the coastal resort of Cap Frehel.

So after a lovely day with family that I don't see often enough and a night of world cup football, the hard work begins tomorrow, with a 102km/67 mile jaunt to Domfront via Pontorson.

05 The 2014 tour is underway.....

A short 12 mile ride at 8am on a very heavy bike to Newcastle Central and this years tour was underway. First camping tour and this is going to be a little tougher than usual because of the weight on the bike. It affects steering balance and resting positions. Often on a downhill section you can stretch off and stand up relaxing leg muscles and arms but not with the extra weight. Hills have never been an issue to me but it just adds a bit more to the climbing and to road position because I am a much wider vehicle.

The train ride to Southampton was excellent and on time. Thank you Cross Country for a good service. The train was packed with people the age of my kids all going to Donnington Music Festival near Derby. They were good company with their tales of camp life and the bands they were going to see. It was quite funny when I pulled out my medium wave radio and plugged up my headphones to catch the sport headlines....whats that?? was the general reaction. Can't you just go online and check? Yes of course I could but dad's do real old radio sets instead. Well at least this one does.

On arrival at Southampton as usual leaving any city on a bike is a nightmare. 45 mins later still trying to find my way out. Never ask a local - they are usually all motorists and try to send you down a motorway.

But the comment of the day went to an old lady motorist parked in a lovely country park...Victoria Park  I think it was. She was with her husband and another old couple taking in the views of the Solent.

"Are you from round here" I asked. A little lost but in the general right direction.

"Not really but can I help?"

"I'm going to Gosport and looking for a little local ferry from Hambley"

"Oh your miles out.  And there's no ferries round here. Where does it go?"

I looked at my notes and said "Warsash"

"Oh" she said "I was born and bred in Warsash. Look for a little pink boat"

I was about 800 yards from said ferry. It was the "I'm not from round here" that creased me. She was the other side of the river.....

Boat is great. Singer on now. Disco later. Must get some food.

04 Last few days for final preparation.....

Four days until I start my 2014 tour. I began booking the first campsite yesterday using my O-level French to email the campsite in Domfront which is my first stop. €3 for a pitch which includes a hot shower and use of a common room with TV! What ...no breakfast ? !!  I'm hoping the weather stays dry as it will be difficult cycle camping in bad weather.

The world cup gets underway at the same time and I really fancy watching Spain v Holland on Friday. I think the Spanish will win the whole thing if they can stay injury free.

Today I will start to pack my pannier bags for the trip and it is always a question of what to leave behind to maximise every cm of space.

I probably need to think about suitable stops for refuelling and not to leave it too late in the day for food. The washing and drying of cycle clothes is always challenging on these trips.